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When curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. However, situated high among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary triumph.